BRICKTOWN
Crossroads of Commerce, Crossroads of Diversity, Crossroads
of Renewal
By Bob L. Blackburn, Ph.D.
For
more than a century, the Land Run of 1889 has inspired
artists and writers drawn to the universal themes of
adventure, hope, and diversity. Today, MAPS projects such as
the ballpark and festive riverwalk offer new inspiration for
the creative spirit.
The area affected by the current public art proposal is
bounded roughly by the Santa Fe tracks on the west, Walnut
Avenue on the east, Second Street on the north, and the
North Canadian River on the south. It is an area of town
rich in history just as it is rich in opportunity - a
crossroads of history where time and place converge to help
us understand ourselves, our community, and our future.
Underlying
all else is the fact that the Bricktown area is the historic
crossroads of commerce in Oklahoma City.
Like the heart in the human body, the railroad was the
engine that provided the lifeblood of early economic
development. From 1889 to 1904, four railroad companies laid
ribbons of steel that connected the land-locked prairie
community to the rest of the world. First was the Santa Fe
that built north and south almost two years before the land
run. Then came the Rock Island, the Frisco, and the Katy.
Each
of these railroad companies focused their freight operations
east of the Santa Fe tracks in what is now Bricktown.
Outbound over those docks passed the wealth of the new
territory. The most important cash crop by far was cotton,
shipped to world markets over the steel rails to Galveston
and points beyond. Other commodities putting dollars in
farmers' pockets included cattle, horses, mules, as well as
wheat, fruit, corn, and produce. After 1928 and the
discovery of the Oklahoma City Field, oil was added to the
list of exports.
Inbound over the rails of commerce came manufactured goods
such as machinery, hardware, farm implements, and
automobiles, especially after 1915 when Henry Ford opened
his assembly plant in Oklahoma City. With money in their
pockets, consumers across the state demanded new products
ranging from radios to Sears' ready-to-assemble homes. Each
new shipment crossed the loading docks in Bricktown. On top
of all this was the flow of passenger traffic, carrying
residents to and from home and travelling salesmen to and
from nearby hotels such as the Huckins and Skirvin.
To
handle this ebb and flow of commerce, three generations of
unique brick buildings were constructed east of the Santa Fe
tracks in Bricktown.
The first structures appeared between 1898 and 1903, such
as the Sherman Ironworks Foundry, that were typically one or
two stories tall with arched windows and embellished door
ways. The next generation, constructed between 1903 and
1911, were usually multi-storied with less ornamentation and
fewer arches. The third wave of construction, from 1911 to
1930, was marked by even taller buildings with rows of
rectangular windows and large graphics signs. The common
thread holding all together was the use of red brick.
While the engine of economic growth gained momentum, another
chapter of Oklahoma City history was unfolding in the same
part of town. That was the story of the African-American
community.
From
1889 to the 1930s Bricktown was a battleground for social
justice and the birthplace of cultural diversity in Oklahoma
City.
It began when some of the first 200 African-Americans
attracted by the land run settled in Sandtown, located along
the north bank of the river east of the Santa Fe tracks.
From there, the black community grew northward as jobs were
created and new waves of immigrants arrived looking for a
piece of the promised land. By 1910 there were more than
7,000 black people in Oklahoma City, most living on the near
east side.
Despite racism and Jim Crow laws passed by the first State
Legislature to separate the races in public places, the
black community prospered alongside their white neighbors
during the prolonged era of economic expansion. With growing
families and newfound buying power, African-Americans built
houses on vacant lots east along the north bank of the river
or purchased older housing stock along the tracks on the
north side of Bricktown. By 1915 the all-black residential
community ringed the commercial district of brick buildings
and stretched from the river on the south to First Street on
the north and as far east as the 1000 block on Third Street.
Faced
with this expansion of black families into formerly white
neighborhoods, the Oklahoma City Council passed a
segregation ordinance that would in effect prevent blacks
from buying or moving into houses north of Second Street.
Even after the United States Supreme Court declared that
ordinance unconstitutional in 1916, de facto segregation
kept the wall intact, making Second Street a symbolic
battleline in the fight against racial injustice.
In 1915 a loud voice was raised in this battle when Roscoe
Dunjee founded the first black newspaper in Oklahoma City,
the "Black Dispatch." From his offices in Bricktown at 228
E. First, Dunjee and his allies organized the first local
branch of the National Association for the Advancement of
Colored People, challenged legal barriers in the courts, and
attacked the "Bloody Fangs of Jim Crow" in the halls of
power. The efforts bore fruit, first with cracks in the
wall, then with a growing volume of victories however small.
Year after year, under constant attack, the walls of
segregation would crumble, a fight started in the
neighborhoods of Bricktown.
Even after the walls of housing segregation began falling,
the Bricktown area remained a crossroads for the free
expression of diversity in Oklahoma. Along the northern
border grew Deep Deuce, the commercial district of the black
community where businessmen and women offered a wide variety
of goods and services ranging from picture shows to some of
the region's most prominent blues and jazz clubs. Also
prospering in this crossroads of diversity was a new
generation of churches, such as Calvary Baptist, which rose
to praise God and provide a strong framework for the moral
life of Oklahoma City.
At the heart of these cultural crossroads was Douglass High
School. Founded in 1891, the all-black school moved to a
two-story frame building in the 400 block of East California
in 1899, followed by a move into the old Webster School in
1903. From this new home at the northwest corner of
California and Walnut (where the baseball park is located
today), Douglass High School became one of the leading
educational institutions in the region.
Among
the outstanding list of leaders at the institution were Dr.
Inman Page, who first gained distinction as president of
Langston University, J. A. Brazelton, founder of the
Oklahoma Association of Negro Teachers, and Dr. Frederick
Moon, a nationally prominent educator and civil rights
advocate from the l930s to the 1960s. Sharing the stage of
leadership was Mrs. Zelia Breaux, who nurtured the musical
careers of young people including Charlie Christian, called
the "world's greatest jazz guitarist," and Mr. Five by Five,
Jimmy Rushing, called the "world's greatest blues singer."
Douglass High remained in the Bricktown Building until 1934
when it moved farther east and north.
The move of Douglass High School from the neighborhood
served as a symbolic transition for the Bricktown area that
would span five decades of decline. First, the Great
Depression brought a sudden halt to new construction and
delayed needed repairs to older buildings. Then came World
War II and the investment of new resources in the war
effort, followed by post-war suburban sprawl and the
development of new industrial parks away from the old
commercial centers and closer to cheap land and the growing
trucking industry. By 1980 the crossroads of commerce and
cultural diversity had become a graveyard of abandoned and
under utilized buildings.
Fortunately, history proves that adversity oftentimes
creates new opportunities, and Bricktown was ripe for a new
beginning. The raw materials were there - cheap buildings,
vacant lots for parking, tax credits for restoration
projects, and a consumer society that was looking for
something new, something more distinctive than bland
suburban shopping malls and faceless movie theaters. The
only thing missing was vision, leadership, and a plan to
make Bricktown the crossroads of renewal.
Efforts
at urban revitalization in the 1960s and 1970s largely
ignored the area while commercial developers tended to stick
with more cautious projects. One man who bucked that trend
was Neal Horton, a developer who saw new opportunities for
the historic area. He created a plan, attracted partners,
and coined the name "Bricktown" to give the old commercial
district an identity. Unfortunately, the oil and banking
crash of 1982 kept Horton from realizing his dreams.
Like good soldiers on the battlefield, others picked up the
flag and charged on. Investors such as Jim Brewer saw
bargains and were willing to invest their time and energy.
Companies such as Spaghetti Warehouse moved in and pointed
the way to others. And then Mayor Ron Norick and an army of
leaders hatched the MAPS program that would add new
attractions to Bricktown and tie it all together with a
festive canal and riverwalk. Like the mythical Phoenix, the
old commercial and cultural crossroads would cast off its
troubled past and emerge once again as a vital part of
Oklahoma City's life.
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